Thursday, November 4, 2010
It seems without Torrontés there’s something missing…
With the elections just weeks away and with political ads pouring out of our mailbox and tying up all the ad space on TV, we figured it was probably time to pull out our sample ballots and take a good look at the issues. So two Friday nights back, we decided to get political. Because four opinions are always better than two, we asked our friends Brian and Courtney if they wanted to join us for some dinner, some wine and some fiery political debate. They were only too happy to oblige.
I was excited for the company because I have essentially been in social exile for the past several weeks due in part to my desire to slow my life down and also due to an incomplete thesis hanging over my head. I was also looking forward to the mini-dinner party because I love love LOVE Fall and there is nothing I like better than having some friends over for a hearty Fall meal and a good bottle of wine. (Un)Fortunately, this particular Friday fell right in the midst of that super intense Indian Summer heat wave we had a couple of weeks ago and it didn’t really feel like Fall at all. Even so, I was determined, so I went ahead with my plans to make butternut squash risotto and roasted brussel sprouts. While the meal was a bit on the heavy side, it was still warm outside, which made choosing a wine somewhat tricky. In the end, my thirst (and my slight preference for whites) won out and I decided to grab one of the wines Tim and I tasted while we were in Argentina – a 2008 Mil Vientos Torrontés from San Juan.
I opened the wine just as we were starting dinner, giving it time to breath a bit. Like a Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, the color was almost white with only hints of golden hues and it had a light quality about it as it swirled in the glass. My initial impression was fairly neutral – it wasn’t creamy or thick and there didn’t seem to be anything particularly unique about this wine…until I stuck my nose in the glass.
The Torrontés varietal is known for producing aromatic wines and this wine was no exception. The nose was distinct and powerful, but not in a bad way. It was sweet and enticing and gave off a scent that I knew I had smelled before, but I just couldn’t put my finger on it. I smelled honey and melon and notes of white flowers. Even with all these aromas wafting toward me, I was still missing the essential piece of this bouquet. The rest of the gang smelled it too, agreeing with me that it was giving off a very distinctive scent that was hard to discern. After a few minutes of deliberation, Courtney identified it – lychee. Above all the other scents coming out of the glass, lychee was by far the strongest and it was luring me in like a Siren.
The first sip only proved the deceptive nature of the wine. I was expecting something more along the lines of a Muscat given the sweet aromatics of the wine, so I was surprised to find a sharp, crisp, dryness on the tip of my tongue. Accompanying that crispness was very tart Gravenstein apple on the front palate combined with heavy acidity on the mid and back palate. On the whole, I can usually hang with overly acidic wines, but this was a bit too much. I could literally feel the burning on my tongue and in the back of my mouth. I won’t say it was a total deal-breaker, but I would have much preferred something with a bit more balance. The finish, however, was quite nice. It boasted a long pear finish with hints of lemon that were reminiscent of a good hard cider. I was happy with the finish as I felt the flavors and complexity return to the wine and in a way that complemented both the meal and the flavors that are so indicative of the season. The wine ultimately paired fairly well with the food, providing a light contrast to the heaviness of the risotto and squash.
We finished dinner and adjourned to the couch to crack open our ballots. I filled everyone’s glasses one last time to see if the wine would pair as nicely with the politics and it did with the food. I am happy to report that it did. Over the next hour or so, we poured over the issues, discussing each in detail and sipping as we went. The conversation was deep, at times heated and controversial, and then comforting – just like the wine. The complexity, the structure and the robustness of the wine made it the ideal accompaniment to our debate. It was the perfect political wine – sweet yet sour, deceptively sharp, the ability to show well on its own, but with the capacity and desire to work well with others.
Amy Award: 3 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $16
Best bet: With grilled chicken or shrimp on a spring day or with a heavy meal, and even heavier conversation
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
They call me Monte Bello...
I hadn’t planned to review another Ridge wine – or at least not for some time – but it just sort of happened. And really, who am I to pass up the opportunity to review the wine that put Ridge on the map – the Monte Bello. I received the bottle as a parting gift when I stopped working in the tasting room at the Healdsburg location several years ago. It was definitely the most expensive bottle I had owned up to that point (and still), both because of its high quality and thus, price; and because it was such a nice wine, I convinced myself that I needed to buy a wine cellar/refrigerator just to store it. So, what could have been a free bottle of a wine retailing anywhere between $90 and $140 turned into a few hundred dollars worth of a wine storage (and the hand truck to move it). But it was worth it! My mom and I lugged that behemoth wine fridge back to my tiny one-bedroom apartment and managed to squeeze it into the closet. And there it stayed, keeping my Monte Bello, and all its other Ridge siblings plus a few stepchildren, at just the right temperature until I was ready to drink it.
That was in 2004. I held onto that bottle, waiting for the perfect special occasion to open it. Interestingly enough, in the next six years I would find myself moving in with my boyfriend, finishing grad school, getting my first “real” job – you know, the one that changes your whole career trajectory, getting engaged, getting married, celebrating our one year anniversary and then turning 30. By any estimation, all of these occasions could have (and probably should have) prompted me to open the Monte Bello. But for one reason or the other, I just didn’t. And then, a few weeks ago, Tim and I found ourselves at home for the first time in several months. We figured that fact alone, along with a freshly-cleaned house, was cause enough to celebrate. So we opened the Monte Bello.
We had also been thinking for quite some time about recreating our best meal in Buenos Aires – lomo a a la pimienta, or beef tenderloin with peppercorn sauce. Of course we knew we would never get steaks as tender and pure as the ones we enjoyed in Argentina, but we were determined to try. We took a little jaunt to our neighborhood butcher, told him of our plan and he set us up with some good-looking, albeit pricey, steaks for our recreation. With some good team work in the kitchen and the help of our good old pal, the internet, we cooked up a fabulous feast that paired exceedingly well with our delicious wine.
Speaking of the wine… let’s get to this. The 1999 Ridge Monte Bello is essentially a Cabernet Sauvignon, although it is blended with Merlot, and the slightest bits of Cab Franc and Petite Verdot. This beautiful Bourdeaux blend was as dark as the night’s sky in the glass. It was deep maroon – even brown at times. Its legs were long and milky, coating the glass with its creamy texture. It looked amazing and I was eager to take it all in.
The nose was light – not overpowering or strong. In fact, I think I detected the slightest hint of sweetness, perhaps berries? But even with the berry undertones, distinct smells of smoke, oak, eucalyptus and chocolate came through. On the whole, I’d say the nose matched the appearance of the wine – dark and dusty. We decanted the wine and let it breathe a fair amount before pouring it into the glass. This was a good move as the first sip was delectable. The mouthfeel was soft and creamy and smooth with only slight tannins and grittiness on the finish, which actually made me think I should have cellared it for another couple of years (and a handful of potential milestones). Even so, it was delicious and the perfect accompaniment to our steaks.
The wine showed a mix of sweet and tart on the front palate – a taste I likened to rhubarb. But its complexity came through on the mid to back palate, with equal parts smoke, oak and leather. This wine was so interesting and layered, yet balanced and unpretentious. It didn’t overwhelm the palate, nor did it fall flat. It maintained an intricate mélange of flavors, but still managed to retain its simplicity.
All in all, this wine was a real winner. It is a wine that is meant to be savored and lingered over – it’s comfortable, like hanging out with your best friend or partner. And like any best friend or partner, it has its faults; but you still relish in its familiarity and effortlessness. Tim called it amazing. I called it the perfect wine to share with my husband while attempting to recreate our honeymoon.
Amy Award: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $90 - $140
Best bet: A special occasion meal with the finest steaks you can find or celebrating a quiet evening in a clean house
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Que Syrah, Syrah – Whatever will be, will be
Okay, so that title was too easy. I know. But I needed a softball for my first blog after being on summer social engagement hiatus. Since my last post (which was eons ago, I am aware), Tim and I witnessed five couples comprised of close friends and family get married, celebrated several bachelor/bachelorette and birthday parties, went camping for a week, hosted a few different houseguests, and celebrated our first anniversary as a married couple. Though we are not in the clear yet – between the two of us, we still have a 30th birthday/engagement party, Tim’s mom’s 60th birthday party, a Lady Gaga concert, a trip to San Diego, an epic backpacking trip through the Eastern Sierras, my 30th birthday and a trip to Ashland – things are starting to wind down, which means Amy’s Wine House is back. I apologize for my sudden and unexplained disappearance. But what would this blog be without a little drama and suspense?
Oh yeah, that’s right. It would be my feeble attempt to review wines. That being said, let’s get to it.
So round about mid-June, one of my good friends, Jessica, moved back to San Francisco after attending grad school and working for a few years in Washington D.C. Excited to see her back on the West Coast and in need of an excuse to clean our apartment, Tim and I put her up at our place for a week while she was looking for a place to share with her “then-boyfriend” (I mentioned we have an engagement party to attend!). A fellow wino, Jessica was only too happy to help me sample some Syrah for my next post. I don’t think either of knew at the time that it would take me two months to actually write and upload the thing. BUT…I am glad I waited. Now, in honor of Jess and her recent engagement to her fiancé Josh, I’m going to review that bottle of Syrah we shared so long ago. Like the wine we tasted, we were so young back then.
In an attempt to branch out and also as a response to some of my followers who have asked me to review a more affordable wine, I picked up a 2007 Rootstock North Coast Syrah from Ukiah, CA. Choosing the wine was a very deliberate and scientific process – I liked the label and the bottle cost $6.99. After a nice, hearty meal of Zachary’s pizza, we headed home to pop open this Rootstock Rhone.
I will say, the wine was beautiful in the glass – it had a dark plum color and slight legs that seemed to foreshadow deep, rich qualities. I swirled and sniffed to find a nose showing strong dark berries, cloves and hints of leather. At times, we even got whiffs of cherry chapstick (huh?). However, with 14.6% alcohol, this little libation was rocking a pretty big alcohol smell. Needless to say, the nose was a mixed bag. The berries and cloves were enticing; the strong alcohol smell was not. But we pressed on.
This Syrah showed an immediate smoothness and drinkability on the front palate, yet became more peppery has it moved through the mid-palate and beyond. A testament to its staying power, the wine boasted a lingering savory, earthy finish with hints of game, dark cherries and slight tannins. The mouthfeel was gritty; and we agreed that it was a heavier Syrah than most, but felt as though it had enough structure to last over time.
As it was, it was drinkable – especially if you wanted a wine you could drink on its own. But this wine was young, and tight, and definitely could have benefitted from some time to mellow out. It wasn’t particularly well-balanced or complex, but I wasn’t completely bored either, I guess. All in all, this Syrah works if you are looking for a cheap earthy wine that will stand on its own, or if you need something to pair with your pizza, spicy sausage or BBQ’d red meats. In the end, Jess and I finished the bottle, but I think next time we’d “root” for a different “stock.”
Amy Award: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $7
Best bet: A cheap wine to pair with your pizza or a late-night bottle with an old friend
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Cracklin’ Rosé, get on board
The Boeger rosé comes from El Dorado County, a rapidly-growing wine growing region in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. This particular rosé was a blend of Barbera – an Italian varietal known for its intense fruit and tannins – and Mourvedre – a strong, dark red wine that is typical of rosés.
The wine looked beautiful in the glass, with a darker pinkish-salmon color that resembled fresh watermelon. Its healthy legs coated the glass nicely, giving it a somewhat creamy texture. Anticipating the chilly crispness of the wine, I stuck in my nose and breathed deeply. With very strong apricot notes, citrus undertones and just a slight hint of cinnamon, this rosé was looking promising. I had a few more nibbles from the cheese plate and went in for the taste.
Even with a slightly creamy mouth feel, the wine was incredibly dry and crisp. It was fruity, but not overly sweet and in fact, the tart apricot and stone fruit flavors showed mostly on the front palate, while the back palate had a somewhat bitter taste – kind of like cough syrup. Interestingly enough, that wasn’t a bad thing. It actually added to the complexity of the wine, giving it a lingering finish and a robustness that pleased me. Overall, it was strong, but not too strong. Some might say toned and defined, but not bulky. Just the way I like it.
Proving its versatility, this rosé continued to pair nicely with the cheese and fruit, but also worked just as well with the delicious tri-tip and Israeli couscous salad Hillary and Brian prepared. I even continued drinking it well into the dessert course – an amazing strawberry shortcake.
This was definitely a wine I would drink again. I guess that’s obvious since this was my second time drinking it. But its strong, robust qualities, which give it the ability to stand on its own, in addition to its versatility and easy accompaniment with food, definitely make it one of my go-to wines for the summer. It is best served chilled (perfect for hot days and warm nights) and its crisp, dry nature makes it a good friend to light and heavy fare alike. And with a little bit of sunshine, this rosé comes up roses.
Amy Award: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $15
Best bet: A backyard BBQ or a summer afternoon with friends
Friday, June 11, 2010
Pinot-thing compares to you
Last weekend, we kicked off wedding season with back-to-back weddings in Sonoma County. On Friday, we celebrated the nuptials of my step-sister Brianna and her husband Brandon at the lovely Estate Restaurant in Sonoma. I started with bubbles since I love the festive and fun nature of champagne, especially at weddings. Plus, the champagne went so well with the oysters they were serving. I decided to stick with the bubbles (and lots of them) for the remainder of the evening – a decision that has made it impossible to review what I was drinking. I think you know what I mean. For what it’s worth, I do remember it was delicious.
On Saturday, we attended the wedding of our good friends Robert and Emily with a beautiful ceremony at Griffith Woods along the Russian River and an equally stunning reception at the Rancho Wikiup in Santa Rosa. Again, I started with sparkling wine because, again, we were having oysters. And again, it was a wedding and well, I just can’t help myself. But the couple had picked out a couple of wines that reflected both their tastes and the places they have lived (or want to live) over the years. One of those wines was a 2007 Octavia Pinot Noir from the Central Coast – a nod to San Luis Obispo, where the two met. Not knowing much about Pinots, and not yet having reviewed a Pinot Noir on the blog, I thought I would give it a taste and review, so Robert and Emily kindly let me take a bottle home after the wedding.
Pinot Noir is best suited to cooler, foggy appellations because the grapes bud and ripen early, and the longer the berries can stay on the vine before becoming too ripe, the more complex the resulting wine will be. So the Central Coast is a great place to grow this varietal because of its temperate climate and coastal influence. I tasted a few Pinots while living in San Luis Obispo, but I have to say, my knowledge of Central Coast wines in general is a little slim, so I was looking forward to getting a taste of one of the varietals that has made the region so famous.
I opened the Octavia last night and let it breath for quite a while before tasting. I immediately noticed its color – a deep, dark scarlet red, almost garnet. It was slightly translucent, which made me think that it would not be as heavy a wine as some. Without a trained palate for Pinots, I didn’t know what to expect in tasting the wine. Although I have to say I was a bit surprised when I stuck my nose in the glass. Right away I smelled a faint hint of jamminess, but soon that was overpowered by strong notes of bacon and mustiness. The more I swirled and sniffed, the more I got cured meats, like salami, bologna and even hot dogs(!) on the nose. Honestly, the more it opened up, the more it smelled like Oscar Mayer. Interestingly enough, however, that didn’t turn me off. One of my guilty pleasures is hot dogs, so admittedly, I got a little excited. And if a wine could smell so much like a Ball Park Frank, what would it taste like? I was about to find out.
The wine itself was definitely savory and carried through it the theme of cured meats, although not as strongly as on the nose. Not a very tannic wine, this Pinot was light and smooth, with a soft finish. The front palate showed more hints of fruit – I would say rhubarb – while the middle and back palate had a bit of earthiness to it. It wasn’t particularly complex or structured, but it wasn’t boring either. It was a very approachable, drinkable wine that would be easy to pair with food. In fact, we enjoyed it with turkey burgers and it complemented the meal just fine. Overall, I liked this wine. I would describe it as nice, light, easy, and simple – a nice introduction to Central Coast Pinot Noir, and a pleasant way to both remember our life in SLO and to celebrate Robert and Emily’s amazing wedding.
Amy Award: 3 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $18
Best Bet: A light summer meal or a beautiful Rancho-style wedding
Monday, May 24, 2010
Chard luck woman
First things first: you may have noticed I’ve got a whole new look going on here. You also may have noticed that it is awesome. I wish I could take credit for it, but I can’t. Here is the story. Basically since I started this blog several weeks ago, I’ve been wanting to spruce it up a bit. I mean, let’s not kid ourselves, the basic Blogger template was not exactly on the cutting edge of design. So I enlisted the help of my friend Brian (previously mentioned in this post) since he’s done a fair amount of graphic design work in his day, including creating the logo for his own foodie venture, the Indilicious cart in San Francisco.
And he did an amazing job! He came up with the concept, color scheme, and layout; and it looks great. I definitely owe him dinner and a bottle of something special.
Okay, now that I’ve addressed my blog’s new outfit, I can get to my post.
With over half of May in the books, it is official: we have entered wedding season. We’ve got our first weddings of the year coming up the first weekend of June with several to follow. To celebrate my friend Emily’s upcoming nuptials, we decided on a girls’ trip up to the Napa Valley to do a bit of tasting. Because we went to a few different wineries, I’m going to veer from my usual style and review several wines since we tasted so many on Saturday.
Our first stop was at Nicholson Ranch along the Hwy 12/121 corridor in Sonoma where they poured us a custom flight of three chardonnays, a rosé, a pinot and a syrah. With my notebook and pen in hand, I started in. Our first pour was a 2005 Estate Reserve Chardonnay Cuveé Natalie, which had an interesting mix of stinky, aged cheese and fresh bell peppers on the nose. I was intrigued. The wine itself was nice. I’m not really a fan of chards, but if I were, I imagined that I would have liked this wine. It was creamy and oaky, like any good chard should be, but it had nice acidity and soft buttery undertones. On the whole it was good; solid. Next up was the 2006 Estate Chardonnay. Like the ’05, it had some cheese on the nose, but I detected slight fruit as well. I was encouraged. It was a much lighter wine than the first one with more acid and more tannins. And while the front palate showed acidity and crispness, the mid and back palates showed both butter and oak. Again, it was good. We rounded out the chards with the 2007 Estate. The smell of sweet pineapple immediately wafted out of the glass. I was excited. Much sweeter than the first two, this chard demonstrated tropical fruit and strong acidity throughout. While the wine coated the glass nicely, it was not too heavy, but rather light, airy and almost weightless. Because this wine was not overly oaky or buttery, I enjoyed it much more than the previous two. And as a younger wine, this chard had a freshness that I found satisfying. The ’07 was definitely my favorite of the lineup. We finished up with the rosé, pinot and syrah and went on our way.
We rounded out our tour with a stop at Clos du Val and Cline Cellars before heading back to the city, but I’ll share my notes from those wineries another time. All in all, I enjoyed spending time with the girls and learning more about Napa wines. Unfortunately for a gal who favors zins, dry whites and Rhone-style wines, Napa’s cabs, merlots and chardonnays didn’t exactly suit my fancy. That’s not to say I’ll never go back to Napa – with any luck, I may grow to love chard.
Amy’s Award: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy scale: $50 - $150+ (transportation, tastings and lunch)
Best bet: A Bourdeaux/Burgundy fact-finding mission or a leisurely trip with friends
Monday, May 17, 2010
Baby Got Mal-bec
Tim and I enjoyed a month-long honeymoon in Argentina earlier this year. After trekking through Patagonia for two weeks, braving the elements – and I’m talking about the most extreme wind and rain you’ve ever seen – rolling into Mendoza was not unlike entering paradise. Situated at the foot of the Andes Mountains, Mendoza benefits from an ancient aqueduct system that captures the snowmelt runoff to irrigate its arid dessert valley. So while it was hot and dry – literally in the 90s to 100s some days – every street had its own irrigation channels lining each side; and with sycamores edging each irrigation ditch, walking down the street was akin to taking a nice leisurely stroll by a creek. The sound of rushing water combined with the shade of the trees soothed us, despite the fact that we were tired, sweaty and carrying around a month’s worth of luggage on our backs. And as two weary travelers from Northern California, we welcomed this hot weather that reminded us of home.
Even more than the weather, however, we were drawn to Mendoza because of its impressive culinary creations and of course, its wine. During our stay there, we managed to tour the wineries of the Maipu Valley on what barely passed for bicycles, sample local delicacies (read: the most delicious grass-fed beef you’ve ever tasted) at Azafrán, and delight in the region’s finest wines at the hip and swanky Vines of Mendoza . You can check out photos of our adventures below.
But in Mendoza I was also reminded of what I loved about wine in the first place – the exquisiteness and complexity of a good wine, the fervor and zeal with which passionate wine-makers approach their task, the ability of an interesting bottle to unite friends and strangers alike, the challenge of sharpening one’s palate, and the seemingly limitless opportunity to learn more about this refined libation. One week in Mendoza and it was on. I vowed to get back into it.
So here I am on a rainy Monday night in May attempting to recreate some of the food and wine we sampled while we were there. To do that, we opened up a 2006 Santos Beck Malbec to pair with our chile-rubbed grilled steak with cilantro pesto, roasted bell peppers and green salad. Malbec, which is known for its dark color and strong tannins, originated in France but has flourished in Argentina and has really become the flagship wine of its renowned wine-growing region Mendoza.
True to form, this Santos Beck Malbec was a beautiful dark scarlet red color and looked fabulous in the glass. The nose was okay, although I had a bit of trouble picking up on its nuances. At times I got chocolate, at other times I got dark berries and plums. And I swear I even got traces of eucalyptus and well, alcohol, for lack of a better descriptor.
To say this wine had robust tannins would also be true, although they came off more as spice and pepper and lingered long into the finish. I found the wine to be somewhat acidic and strong with a powerful punch that permeated the entire mouth. The mouth-feel was airy and light, yet the wine was structured as if it was meant to be laid down for a few more years at least. Don’t get me wrong, it was approachable enough right now – smooth and fruit forward on the front of the palate, yet full of brawn on the back palate – but I’m certain it would have benefitted from a bit more rest.
This wine was decanted and as it continued to breath, it definitely softened up. After some time I was able to taste its fruit much more clearly while still experiencing the strong tannic finish; and I liked that. I definitely liked the wine, but I didn’t love it. I think, more than anything, I liked reliving Mendoza again and recalling the viticultural spirit that made the place so enchanting. So I’m going to bed happy. Ahhh…nothing like a Malbec to bring to you back.
Amy Award: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy scale: $18
Best bet: Alongside a good steak or as an afternoon glass with some stinky cheese