Monday, May 17, 2010

Baby Got Mal-bec

Tonight I thought I’d bring it back to where it all re-began. I mentioned that my real, honest passion for wine was sparked at Ridge Vineyards – well that passion that once lay dormant was rekindled in the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina. Although I had continued to enjoy wine, tasting and buying occasionally to keep our cellar stocked, I hadn’t committed myself to digging deeper, learning more, and broadening my wine horizons until we arrived in Mendoza. Ahhh… Mendoza. Let me paint the picture for you.

Tim and I enjoyed a month-long honeymoon in Argentina earlier this year. After trekking through Patagonia for two weeks, braving the elements – and I’m talking about the most extreme wind and rain you’ve ever seen – rolling into Mendoza was not unlike entering paradise. Situated at the foot of the Andes Mountains, Mendoza benefits from an ancient aqueduct system that captures the snowmelt runoff to irrigate its arid dessert valley. So while it was hot and dry – literally in the 90s to 100s some days – every street had its own irrigation channels lining each side; and with sycamores edging each irrigation ditch, walking down the street was akin to taking a nice leisurely stroll by a creek. The sound of rushing water combined with the shade of the trees soothed us, despite the fact that we were tired, sweaty and carrying around a month’s worth of luggage on our backs. And as two weary travelers from Northern California, we welcomed this hot weather that reminded us of home.

Even more than the weather, however, we were drawn to Mendoza because of its impressive culinary creations and of course, its wine. During our stay there, we managed to tour the wineries of the Maipu Valley on what barely passed for bicycles, sample local delicacies (read: the most delicious grass-fed beef you’ve ever tasted) at Azafrán, and delight in the region’s finest wines at the hip and swanky Vines of Mendoza . You can check out photos of our adventures below.

But in Mendoza I was also reminded of what I loved about wine in the first place – the exquisiteness and complexity of a good wine, the fervor and zeal with which passionate wine-makers approach their task, the ability of an interesting bottle to unite friends and strangers alike, the challenge of sharpening one’s palate, and the seemingly limitless opportunity to learn more about this refined libation. One week in Mendoza and it was on. I vowed to get back into it.

So here I am on a rainy Monday night in May attempting to recreate some of the food and wine we sampled while we were there. To do that, we opened up a 2006 Santos Beck Malbec to pair with our chile-rubbed grilled steak with cilantro pesto, roasted bell peppers and green salad. Malbec, which is known for its dark color and strong tannins, originated in France but has flourished in Argentina and has really become the flagship wine of its renowned wine-growing region Mendoza.

True to form, this Santos Beck Malbec was a beautiful dark scarlet red color and looked fabulous in the glass. The nose was okay, although I had a bit of trouble picking up on its nuances. At times I got chocolate, at other times I got dark berries and plums. And I swear I even got traces of eucalyptus and well, alcohol, for lack of a better descriptor.

To say this wine had robust tannins would also be true, although they came off more as spice and pepper and lingered long into the finish. I found the wine to be somewhat acidic and strong with a powerful punch that permeated the entire mouth. The mouth-feel was airy and light, yet the wine was structured as if it was meant to be laid down for a few more years at least. Don’t get me wrong, it was approachable enough right now – smooth and fruit forward on the front of the palate, yet full of brawn on the back palate – but I’m certain it would have benefitted from a bit more rest.

This wine was decanted and as it continued to breath, it definitely softened up. After some time I was able to taste its fruit much more clearly while still experiencing the strong tannic finish; and I liked that. I definitely liked the wine, but I didn’t love it. I think, more than anything, I liked reliving Mendoza again and recalling the viticultural spirit that made the place so enchanting. So I’m going to bed happy. Ahhh…nothing like a Malbec to bring to you back.

Amy Award: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
Spendy scale: $18
Best bet: Alongside a good steak or as an afternoon glass with some stinky cheese

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