Thursday, November 4, 2010

It seems without Torrontés there’s something missing…

I actually wrote this blog a couple of weeks ago, prior to the election (which will become obvious in about three sentences), but have been super busy and was not able to post it until just now. However, the results of the election might be a boon to the blog as I see myself turning more and more to wine to numb the pain. Anyway, without further ado, here is the post:

With the elections just weeks away and with political ads pouring out of our mailbox and tying up all the ad space on TV, we figured it was probably time to pull out our sample ballots and take a good look at the issues. So two Friday nights back, we decided to get political. Because four opinions are always better than two, we asked our friends Brian and Courtney if they wanted to join us for some dinner, some wine and some fiery political debate. They were only too happy to oblige.

I was excited for the company because I have essentially been in social exile for the past several weeks due in part to my desire to slow my life down and also due to an incomplete thesis hanging over my head. I was also looking forward to the mini-dinner party because I love love LOVE Fall and there is nothing I like better than having some friends over for a hearty Fall meal and a good bottle of wine. (Un)Fortunately, this particular Friday fell right in the midst of that super intense Indian Summer heat wave we had a couple of weeks ago and it didn’t really feel like Fall at all. Even so, I was determined, so I went ahead with my plans to make butternut squash risotto and roasted brussel sprouts. While the meal was a bit on the heavy side, it was still warm outside, which made choosing a wine somewhat tricky. In the end, my thirst (and my slight preference for whites) won out and I decided to grab one of the wines Tim and I tasted while we were in Argentina – a 2008 Mil Vientos Torrontés from San Juan.

I opened the wine just as we were starting dinner, giving it time to breath a bit. Like a Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, the color was almost white with only hints of golden hues and it had a light quality about it as it swirled in the glass. My initial impression was fairly neutral – it wasn’t creamy or thick and there didn’t seem to be anything particularly unique about this wine…until I stuck my nose in the glass.

The Torrontés varietal is known for producing aromatic wines and this wine was no exception. The nose was distinct and powerful, but not in a bad way. It was sweet and enticing and gave off a scent that I knew I had smelled before, but I just couldn’t put my finger on it. I smelled honey and melon and notes of white flowers. Even with all these aromas wafting toward me, I was still missing the essential piece of this bouquet. The rest of the gang smelled it too, agreeing with me that it was giving off a very distinctive scent that was hard to discern. After a few minutes of deliberation, Courtney identified it – lychee. Above all the other scents coming out of the glass, lychee was by far the strongest and it was luring me in like a Siren.

The first sip only proved the deceptive nature of the wine. I was expecting something more along the lines of a Muscat given the sweet aromatics of the wine, so I was surprised to find a sharp, crisp, dryness on the tip of my tongue. Accompanying that crispness was very tart Gravenstein apple on the front palate combined with heavy acidity on the mid and back palate. On the whole, I can usually hang with overly acidic wines, but this was a bit too much. I could literally feel the burning on my tongue and in the back of my mouth. I won’t say it was a total deal-breaker, but I would have much preferred something with a bit more balance. The finish, however, was quite nice. It boasted a long pear finish with hints of lemon that were reminiscent of a good hard cider. I was happy with the finish as I felt the flavors and complexity return to the wine and in a way that complemented both the meal and the flavors that are so indicative of the season. The wine ultimately paired fairly well with the food, providing a light contrast to the heaviness of the risotto and squash.

We finished dinner and adjourned to the couch to crack open our ballots. I filled everyone’s glasses one last time to see if the wine would pair as nicely with the politics and it did with the food. I am happy to report that it did. Over the next hour or so, we poured over the issues, discussing each in detail and sipping as we went. The conversation was deep, at times heated and controversial, and then comforting – just like the wine. The complexity, the structure and the robustness of the wine made it the ideal accompaniment to our debate. It was the perfect political wine – sweet yet sour, deceptively sharp, the ability to show well on its own, but with the capacity and desire to work well with others.

Amy Award: 3 stars (out of 5)
Spendy Scale: $16
Best bet: With grilled chicken or shrimp on a spring day or with a heavy meal, and even heavier conversation

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